This process is known as sistering studs. Continuous Load Path. A beam of PSL lumber installed to replace a load-bearing wall at the first floor of a three-story building. In a load-bearing wall, the sister effectively replaces the bad stud by carrying its entire load, from ceiling to floor. It serves as a "splint" that simply reinforces the bad spot in the stud. All the best on your project. Though they had placed plastic between the dirt and the exterior wall, I was suspicious. and cut the post to length. Be sure the damaged stud has enough solid material to which you can attach the new stud. The wall is in the basement of a split level home and I need to fix about a 5 foot section. I once had to replace a 12 foot section of exterior wall two stories high on my old (2 storey) house, and so jacks wouldn't cut it. You could be dealing with a load bearing wall if: 1. the wall runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists (especially if joists overlap above the wall), 2. the wall is directly under a wall on the next floor, 3. your house collapses when you remove the wall. If the wall has horizontal fire-blocking within the stud cavity, the blocking must be removed to make room for a full-length sister stud. I am wanting to build an internal wall on a concrete slab. Then just pull up the bottom plate. But what about the bottom stud that runs along the floor? Replacing the subfloor under a wall is not a beginner's do-it-yourself project, especially if the wall in question is a load-bearing wall. Along the front exterior wall, the former owners had build up a rock wall flower bed. He said it was the only way to get the pipe to the second floor, (even though there is non support wall that is about a foot from where he placed the pipe. Check it for level. Thanks in advance for the help! I agree with all the suggestions so far about using a simple ceiling jack to return things to square and level, then replacing studs one at a time. ... Another option is to frame a temporary wall in front of your load bearing wall to hold the load while you do the repair. It is usually done as a means of reinforcing a stud that has been damaged or is bowed in a manner that compromises its load-bearing capacity. Another option is to frame a temporary wall in front of your load bearing wall to hold the load while you do the repair. The sister stud must be anchored to both plates as well as to the damaged stud. Make certain that this sistering job has not been made necessary by some larger problem. If the old stud is completely rotten and has no solid sections, add new studs to both sides. I am just a bit concerned about doing something wrong with a load bearing wall in my home and unfortunately paying someone to do it is not an option. If the old stud has little structural value or is damaged by rot or insects, it is best to remove it completely and replace it with one or more new studs. The term sister stud refers to a secondary stud that is installed alongside an existing stud. I built full-width stud walls 3 feet in from the exterior wall in the basement, first floor and second floor. The first three comments have got it right, though I would add that if you use a jack, use it on a 3-4 foot piece of board to spread the load over several joists. ... (load bearing) wall. From what I can tell this part of the sill would carry the load from laminated beam that runs down the middle of the house. once I take that out then more than one stud is going to be unsupported, even now the studs on top of the rotten bottom board aren't really supporting any weight. The purpose of this is to create a rumpus room. The 12 foot section in under two trusses that are nailed together, so I am sure this is a load bering wall. 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2020 replacing bottom plate load bearing wall